Sunday, 27 April 2008

What I love about Bangers

So it's official - I'm loving Thailand Like I said before I've never really been that fussed about the country. But then I'm thinking sometimes you need to move on from somewhere/something/someone to fully apprecaite them. Even the indosincracies you're not so keen on. This I think is the case with my 'relationship' with Thailand.

The last time I visited Thailand, indeed Bangers, was six months ago and since then I've travelled around Tibet, Nepal, India, Balia and been to KL and Singers. I now fully appreciate all that Bangers has to offer. Where I am right now I love the fact I can get a taste of everything that I adore about the west.

I can wander into Boots and pore over the wide selection of tolitories, spicy tuna and glass noodle salads are everywhere, I can walk around annoymously (unlike India)and above all I can fully induldge in my obssesion - beautiful magazines - I've been known to blow two day's budget on Grazia, Glamour, Vogue and Elle. Yep, since I've been in Bangers, deciding on whether to accept a job offer in Bahrain, I've been enjoying the lighter side of Bangkok.

That is spending my time sunnying myself by the roof top pool side of Rambuttri Village Inn where I'm currently residing, catching up on the lastest gossip at Mr Yims over my staple breakfast of fruit, home made yogart and honey, eating gorgeous organic lunch delights at Ethos, wandering around Boots looking at makeup, sauntering around the clothes stalls on the Koah San Road, staring wildly at the pervs (now taken to trying to maintain eye contact which the guys don't like), updating my blog which I virtually abandoned during my month of spiritual awakening (!) in Bali at Internet Cafe called 'Hot Spot' where I've virtually set-up residence and watching the latest movies at Home Guest House each evening. Oh and reading magazines.....tons of them. I'm am LURVING Bangkok.

Saturday, 26 April 2008

Back to Bangers and to the categories

This is my fourth time in Bangers and I finally get it. Now appreciate the city for what it is and I'm loving it. Before I couldn't stand the place. Well, that's a bit harsh but I just couldn't be arsed with the hassle. The endless nagging from tuk tuk drivers who tell you they'll show you the sights for 20 Bhat, drag you into various shopping emoriums and if you don't buy anything, leave you stranded at a tourist landmark and tell the other tuk tuk drivers not to take you anywhere. Please note when in Bangers never, ever take a tuk tuk. Taxis (ensure they put their meter on) cost the same, if not cheaper and don't dick you about. However it's been six months since my last visit of Bangers and it's only now that I fully appreciate all that sin city has to offer.

Admittedly Bangers is the mecca for all sexual deviants. And I mean deviants in the strongest term. Walking along the Khao San Road you see social leapers all here to act out their, no doubt, highly illegal sexual fantasies. You can spot them a mile off. They just don't look right; usually sporting long finger nails..... However perverts aside, the atmosphere in Bangers is electric and I've never really noticed it during my previous visits - I was too busy being disgusted with 60 year old men walking down the street feeling up 15 year old Thail girls.

The shopping is great too - I'm loving my Diesel jeans, the food (I'm currently mainling spicy tuna glass noodle salad like it's going out of fashion) and there are some great sights. Again, I'm refering to the vast number of Wats and meditation on offer - for those of you who have been reading my blog for a while will know I love a Wat, I love a Monk and I love to meditate.

Talking of Monks I was 'had' by a Monk the other day. No! Not in that way - my mind drifts back to when I was traumatised during a monk chat at at Wat in Chiang Mai when the Monk I was chatting to asked me out on a date. No, this was a FAKE monk. Only Bangers can offer faux monks who ask for money. I knew he was a faker by his shoes but handed him some money anyway. And looked him straight in the eye as I did so - cheeky git looked right back too!

Anyway, Bangers gave me the chance to do two things which I love: scouring the shops and updating my Categories List. More on shopping later - I want to talk about my pride and joy: The Categories List.

This has been in existence since I arrived in Thailand last year. It's four defined categories which outline the types of men you see with Thai ladies. It has been checked with various travellers around the globe - men and women, young and old. I've refined it many times and have now had the opportunity to fine tune it again. I think you'll agree, it's a master piece. I've now introduced a new element - primary and secondary options as sometimes one category just isn't enough ie divorcee/sexual deviant, divorcee/looking for love, Loner (read: can't pull in his own country)/sexual deviant. You get the picture.

So here they are again - some of you will remember the Categories List from last year - fine tuned for your enjoyment:

Category 1: the divorcee:

A personal favorite of mine in terms of value - they get really uncomfortable if you stare at them which of course I love to do...if nothing else I'm puzzled as to why they think combing over two strands of hair hides their bald head.

This species is easily identifyable, usually with dyed auburn coloured hair to hide the grey hair when introduced to the woman's village family. 8 out of 10 sport a comb over 'hair style' which usual amounts to two or three strands of hair, geled and combed over the skull. Hides a multitude of sins don't you know!!

Normally dressed from head to toe in one colour (either light blue of beige), usually cotton short sleeved shirt and trousers with alarming footwear. Being a shoe lover, the footwear bothers me the most. It can range from black or brown leather slip-ons or sandals....with matching socks.

The divorcee is tired of women from his country and/or 20 years younger than him. He thinks women within this age range expect to much, they are too opinionated. Frankly too much like hard work. He's after someone who's attractive, who will look after him, won't question his tactics and sexula prowness (assuming he has any) in bed and generally will agree with what he says...this is mainly due to the language barrier as she can't really understand what he's saying or if she does, she doesn't have the vocab to reply!

The bonus for the South East Western woman is that he offers a nice lifestyle and she doesn't have to engage in too much conversation. A simple nod or yes will suffice.

Category 2: In love:

Young or old it can happen to anyone if you're lucky. You can spot it a mile off and it's lovely to see.

Category 3: The Loner:

This guy rarely pulls women in his home town. He needs to go abroad and pay for it to get a look in with a pretty girl. He's in awe of his mates who get to go home with attractive women so naturally enjoys the kudos of 'pulling' a good looking girl abroad.

The girl usually look a bit pained or bored as they listen to him waffle on about himself. The Loaner usually wears a logo tee with light faded jeans and trainer. He tends to walk the streets hand in hand with said woman with a massive grin on his face. Fair enough!

Category 4: The Sexual Deviant:

Basically a bit of sex pest. No age or looks category here - men who fall into this category are out to satisfy as many of the sexual perverse fantasies as possible. Have been known to get quite violent. Tend to treat the woman with contempt or on the flip side are just thankful someone has finally allowed them to act out their greatest and potentially sickest fantasy.

Flashpacking in Railay, Thailand









Above: me and Chase on my b-day, West Railay Beach, James Bond Island and the Floating Village

I've heard great things about Phuket and then not so great things too and thankfully Dan and I were of the same opinon that we didn't want to risk embarking on endless girly bars, sun burnt beer swilling tourists and general madness. However the sheer limestone cliffs, white sand and emerald waters of Laem Phra Nang was looking like a very attractive alternative so we decided to catch a boat to West Railay having heard such glowing reports about the peninsular.

The scenery as we sailed towards Railay was incredible and the horizon was dotted with what now seems to be almost mandatory massive limestone rocks. My jaw nearly dropped on the floor when I saw the beach at Ao Phra Nang though however nothing prepared me for the sight as we chugged into Railay bay. Set against a magnificent backdrop of cliffs and palms with crystal blue water and white sands - it was truly beautiful. Dan and I were whooping and jumping up and down on the deck much to the amusment of the other 'cool' traaaavellers on the boat.

Dan was very insistent on the standard of the accommodation. 'Neen, I loved Varkala but we've done the traveller beach hut thing. I'm only here for 10 days and I want luxury.' And who was I to argue.

A friend of his had recommended Railay Bay Beach and Spa which is were we based ourselves. It was gorgeous. We had a beautiful bungalow with a massive veranda, air-con, sat TV...mini bar fully stocked with goodies. I was in heaven.

Originally we planned to stay for four days but then it got to day three and we were like 'nah, can't be arsed to move'. Plus to be really honest with you I'm sick of carrying my rucksack around so I was pretty glad we weren't moving on for a while.

The next 10 days were literally spent doing nothing but sunbathing, reading and having spa treatments. I wasn't drinking nor was Dan really. In fact we both woke up daily at 7 - Dan to go for a run and me to practice yoga. My how things have changed.

The resort was a bit couple centric and we both commented that you wouldn't come here if you wanted to pull, although a quiet girly holiday or something family orientated would be ideal. And although there were a few potentials for both of us on the beach neither of us could be bothered to get up from our sun loungers!

Railay was great. Beautiful. The beaches are amazing, sea calm. Restaurants great - pretty samey but fresh seafood etc is never a thing to knock. I was there at the end of the season so the staff were pretty tired, ratty and generally moody - in most places. If you want to eat within an hour of sitting down don't bother going to Real Coffee on West Railay. The staff are too busy chatting however the juices and coffee are brilliant so it's a hard one to weigh up!

Dan and I were walking along the beach when we literally bumped into Charlie's boyfriend, Greg. Pretty strange as neither of them knew we were in Railay but they'd just arrived from Krabi. Always strange how you bump into people in random places esp when you're travelling. I love that part of it (in fact I love every aspect of it - aside from my blimmin ruck sack).

So they stayed a few days and celebrated my 35th birthday with me. As did the rest of Thailand in a way as it was also the Thai New Year on my birthday. Finally I've found a country and people who celebrate my birthday as much as I do. Marverlous. Accept this year my birthday celebrations were somewhat different to the last 20 (shudder at that nos) as I was....

wait for it.....

SOBER

Yep, you read correctly. I've stopped drinking. In fact I've stopped doing anything which alters my frame of mind. The craziest thing I did all evening was have three coffees. It was hilarious. Talk about a massive change in lifestyle. The next day I was up at 7am practising yoga. A year ago I was still celebrating my birthday at 7am in fact I don't think I went to sleep until 1pm the following afternoon.

After my 'wild' birthday we headed out to Phang Naga Bay, which is famously knows as the James Bond island - it featured in the movie "The Man With the Golden Gun". See pic above. We then headed to Koh Pannyi (Sea Gypsy Island) which is a remarkable village, the whole of it built out over water on stilts and with a giant rock monolith guarding its rear. We then headed to a temple built into a giant cliff - with a reclining Buddha and you know how I love a Buddha. And as luck would have sitting in front of the giant reclining Buddha was non other than an authentic Monk (they have fake Monks in Bangers!) giving blessings. I skipped up to him and was promptly blessed. I was in my element. Show me a Monk, a reclining Buddha and I'm as happy as Larry!


So all in all Railay was pretty brilliant.

Returning to Thailand

Okay, so I'll admit I really didn't see what the fuss was about Thailand when I came started my travels from there last July. I really didn't get it. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't as though I didn't not like it. I just wasn't blown away by the country. Maybe I had high expectations as everyone was like 'you'll love Thailand'...I have to be honest I didn't really. True I met some amazing people and had a fabulous time during the two months I was there but the country and the people itself? I wasn't desperate to return. I thought, and still do think, Thailand is knackered. It's been ravaged by tourism, the natives are worn out, tired generally over it or rather over us and there is a real seedy side to Thailand which I personally find hard to digest.

Personally I think when you come to Thailand you witness first hand the real hedonistic side to human nature. Where money can buy you anything and you can indulge in every sexual perversion possible for a small amount of money. Anything goes and I mean anything. It's pretty sick. I shudder when I see tiny, prepubescent like Thai girls - and most of them are girls - with fat, unattractive, sexual deviants - and you can spot a sexual deviant a mile off, they have that unkempt look) or worse still guys who look like one of you dad's mates. In my experience if you want to avoid this side of Thailand then you have you to really search for those parts where it's not in your face. And that my friend is pretty hard. The sex trade is rife and it's virtually everywhere.

No country is perfect though and obviously it's not all bad. Thailand has some of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, the food is amazing in terms of the sheer range and once you head outside of Bangers - or sin city as I like to affectionately call it - you get a true feel for the culture which is peaceful, calm and giving. The Wats (temples) are stunning as is the scenery - in fact one of my most memeroble momments in Thailand was trekking in Pai. The landscape was beautiful. I hasten to add that's the first and last trekk I'll ever do however I can still appreciate the beauty....admittedly even more so from the comfort of the Hot Spot Internet Cafe in Bangers that currently I'm writing from!

So although I was looking forward to meeting Mr Dan Pimm in Phuket - also known for it's girly bars and the Thai's version of Benidorm - I wasn't massively enthralled about the thought of heading back to the country which had left me feeling pretty no plused.

That was until I flew over the Anadaman Coast and OH. MY. GOD. My eyes were popping out of my head as I saw the coast line - it was one of the most beautiful landscapes I'd ever seen. Tropical vegatation with massive rubber and coconut plantations replacing the rice and sugar-cane fields you see in central Thailand. Sheer limestone crags spiked out of the calm turquise sea which, set against the pure white sandy beaches, looked nothing short of stunning. It was at that point that I knew I was finally going to understand the attraction of Thailand and perhaps appreciate it for what it is.

I met Mr Pimm in Phuket Town. For those of you who haven't had the pleasure, Pimm is like the brother I never head and was over from London on a 10 day holiday. Like me he has no 'significant other' in tow. All his mates are coupled up it's pretty hard to find someone to go on holiday with. So it works out rather well what with me travelling. The last time I saw him was when he came to see me in Kerala in November. Plenty, and I mean plenty, has happened to both of us since then so we had a lot of catching up to do. And we always chew the fat extremely well. So I was looking forward to seeing a friendly face.

Dinner at Thammachat was not only delicious it was hilarious and the perfect start to the next 10 days. The restaurant provided all the necessary people watching elements required for a 'oh my god look at that' night out.

To the right of our table were two 60 plus highly unattractive German men with what looked like a mother and daughter Thai act. The daughter being about 15 and that's no exaggeration. Thankfully I had birds eye view of all of them - much to Dan's disappointment who had to do the 'scratch the neck and turn' manoeuvre to get a good look. Both of the pervy men kept avoiding eye contact with me but I made sure I kept smiling at the Thai mother though just for full effect.

Directly in Dan's view were a two gay lovers: one older Western guy (nationality unknown but we suspected British) and a very young Thai guy. Then on another table was a scenario I personally hadn't witnessed before: mum, dad, daughter and an middle aged Western guy who had coloured his hair the tell-tale aurban colour - for some reason most of the older western guys who want to look around 40 try to perfect this look. I have no idea why. I think it must be home colourant they all use as the grey is never covered properly. Just when we thought it couldn't get any better Dan and I were eagerly surveying our dinner companions when our waiter or rather waitress arrived to take our order - a lady boy! We were in heaven. Welcome to Thailand!

Monday, 7 April 2008

I Lurve KL (Kuala Lumpur)








I have such fond memories of Kuala Lumpur or KL as those in the know call it. I didn't actually plan to go to there - I ended up in Mayalsia's capital (twice) purely by coincidence and consequently met some really lovely people; the kindest hotel receptionists I've ever met and had one of the best spur-of-the-moments dinner dates with Dick the Dutchman.

The reason I headed to KL the first time was because I didn't check the flight routes to Bali when booked my flight from India to Singers. I kind of assumed Air Asia (cheap, no frills airline...and I mean NO frills) would fly from Singers and they do but the flights were booked up for a week. I was in a massive hurry to get to Bali. So decided to fly to KL and get a flight from there to Bali. Anyway as I was heading to KL and hadn't been before I completely contradicted myself on my 'I have to get to Bali asap' notion and decided to spend a few days in KL on the way. I know, my reasoning is an unknown entity to me too.

My second visit to KL was on the way from Bali to the Andaman Coast in Thailand. I did manage to stick to my 'plan' the second time though and only stayed in KL for one night. It was literally a stop over. Supposed to be a cheap stop over at the that but for those of you who've been following me blog for a while, me and cheap or rather 'cost effective' as I like to put it, just don't work. I have no idea why and I've tried many, many times to court 'cost effective' but I get blown out every time. Which leads me to firmly believe that I'm meant to lead the life of a wealthy lady. How I don't know how but I am working on it!

Anyway, I'm banging on. Back to my adventures in KL.

As much as I enjoyed the experience, after spending two nights in a dorm I decided to go all out and treat myself....to a mid range hotel. Aaah the joys of being a traaaaveller. I now fully appreciate 'luxuries' like air con, clean bathrooms and sat TV. After a lengthy conversation with my taxi driver (who was so cheerful he'd put the London cabbies to shame) about Formula One - the circus was in town - I checked into Hotel China Town Inn in the middle of China town, where I met yet another friendly face - the receptionist. All these lovely people in the space of 2 hours. I was beginning to like KL.

I was in heaven when I realised what I'd stumbled upon in China Town. Fake designer sunglasses. I was so relieved as while my Dior ones had served me well and seen some serious action in Cambodia, Thailand, Nepal, Tibet, India and Singers; I felt it was time for a change. I needed to revamp my look. I needed a new pair. But in my excitement at the cost, the vast selection and just general adrenaline rush I get when I purchase anything these days, I brought four pairs. Gucci, Prada, Chanel and Dior.

It must have been my new Gucci sunnies which caught Dick the Dutchman's eye as I sauntered (these days I don't speed walk, I saunter) up to the admissions counter of the Telecoms Tower. The lady behind the counter mistook us for a couple and charged him for my entry fee. 15 mins later I find myself at the top of the worlds tallest telecoms tower having my very own 'sleepless in Seattle' moment, chatting to Dick the Dutchman.

Now I would be lying if I didn't admit to inwardely smirking when he introduced him self as Dick. In fact I now know he was searching my face for a reaction. All I could muster up while trying to keep a straight face was 'Dick? Did you have a turbulent relationship with your parents as a teenager?' to which he laughed and said he didn't but he should've done.

Dick had a a great sense of humour. We spent the morning at the top of telecoms tower, followed by lunch. Then we met later for dinner. I must admit I'm always pretty suspicious of dinner dates with a stranger. I've had my fingers burnt with a small selection of blind dates plus the 'sensible' side of me - which seems to have adopted my fathers voice since I've been travelling which slightly scares me - yells 'he could be a murderer...this might be the one who kills you...'. Then I go to jugde: 'He's over 33 and single so he's either a perv, sex pest and/or generally odd'. Then it dawns on me again (this bit is like waking up every morning screaming from a recurring nightmare) that I too am now well and truly over 33 so does that mean that I'm a perv, a sex pest and/or odd? Let's move on.

But Dick didn't kill me - otherwise I wouldn't be writing this now - he was lovely. I had a lovely time with him. I've stopped drinking, smoking and taking anything else which effects my state of mind so I actually could remember the evening too. historically on this kind of evening I'd be sinking vodkas, mainlining cigs, hasseling the underworld of KL for some form of narcotic and then talking at my date for several hours. Usually about the time I was seven, most definately about my three sisters, how fabulous they, how lucky I am and how much I miss them. This would turn into tears followed by an obligatry lunge at the guy. And you wonder why I've stopped drinking? I think you probably understand why now.

My second visit to KL I arrived late on a flight from Bali. I decided to stay at a hotel near the airport as I was flying out early the next day, and KL itself is about an hours drive from the airport. So there I am thinking 'mid range hotel, sat tv, room service...nice'. I arrive to find that there's no room at the inn. In fact all the mid range hotels were fully booked.

Wait for it.

The only hotel with a room was a five star hotel.

I don't really know what came over me. I just went into some sort of zombie like zone. Like I was drugged. Eager for five star treatment. Nothing would stop me. 30 mins later I find myself in an executive suite at the Pacific. I was in heaven. See pics above. The room was gorgeous. Well, airport hotel gorgeous. I complimented myself on how easily adaptable I was; one minute I'm happy in slums, next I'm jumping up and down on Queen size bed deliberating over whether to watch HBO or Star Movies channel. Decisions, decisions.

It's here that I'll introduce some words of wisdom from the great Buddha. And when you read the next sentences you'll understand why. You see in this life it's all about understanding 'impermanence'. Nothing lasts, everything changes. What goes up, must come down. Get used to it. That's life. And my god did I come down..with a massive bump when the next day - running late for my flight as I was too busy swimming around in the bath tub to notice the time - I went to pay for my night of luxury and my card wouldn't go through. Jeeeeeeesus.

Now I have always managed my finances with the zest and optimism. So it won't come as any surprise to you that having my card refused in fine (and not so fine) establishments is like water off a ducks back. It's happened so many times it's like telling me it's about to rain. 'oh'...no rush of embarrassment. Nothing. Totally calm. It's happened in Selfridges, Mui Mui, Prada, Hakkassan, Nobu, Tescos, M&S, The Dog and Duck, Circle K. You get the picture. Everywhere.

So there I was thinking I was about to spend the next five days washing dishes in the kitchen or working as a Chamber Maid (jobs I've actually done before) when my saviour came before me. See pic above) Before I knew where I was the problem was solved and I was on my way to the airport in the hotel limo - he didn't ask for any sexual favours in return either. He was my KL angle.

Friday, 4 April 2008

Meeting The Don

It's funny how someone you bearly know can lead you to another who opens your eyes up to a completely different way of thinking which ultimately changes your whole perspective entirely. Fleur did exactly that. When I met her at the Yoga Cafe she'd just spent a couple of hours chatting with a guy called Don. She described him as a modern day guru who gives you a really interesting insight to how your mind works, how your thoughts affect others and ultimately the world. I was intrigued so I called him up and arranged to go and see him the following morning.

Don is American and NLP expert who, along with Tjokorda Gede Rai, I attribute to the massive change in my perspective. In a nutshell Don and Tjokorda Gede Rai 'turned on the light switch' for me. Meeting them both was incredible and the 'work' Don and I did definitely changed my life. For the better I hasten to add.

Don introduced me to two fascinating approaches: the wonders of PEAT - Primordial Energy Activation and Transcendence and also emotional energy and how it affects you physically.

Basically there are two fundamental possibilities for us as conscious human beings: dualistic and unified consciousness. Most human beings live predominantly on the dualistic plane, in which they see, perceive, and experience everything in opposites. It is always either/or, good or bad, destroying or creating, advancing or retreating, freedom or slavery, love or freedom, life or death, I or you… endlessly…

Connected with this dualistic consciousness is this strange fact: all of us have one single most fundamental problem in life. Mystic masters say that if we do not resolve this fundamental problem in this lifetime we will have to return to work further on it in future lifetimes. Now, using the PEAT process, it is possible to solve that problem across all your lifetimes.

In 1999, Zivorad Slavinski created Primordial Energy Activation and Transcendence (PEAT) from roots in various systems of Energy Psychology. Shortly after its creation, he made an essential creative breakthrough which allows you to transcend dualistic consciousness and to effectively solve hard-core problems – most importantly, your core, fundamental life problem. His presentations of PEAT were very well received at the Toronto Energy Psychology Conference in November 2000 and at the European Energy Psychology Conference in Switzerland in July 2001.

At its basic level, which is called Shallow Processing, PEAT is similar to other energy psychology systems, involving the acupressure and the heart chakra systems.

In PEAT Deep Processing you start with a problem and you uncover deeper and quite different contents in the chain of links leading to the deepest cause of the problem you started with. Each session lasts from 15 minutes to two hours (on average 40 minutes). When you reach the deepest cause, the problem vanishes for good.

Most importantly, in one to three sessions of PEAT Deep Processing, you are able to uncover, make conscious and Neutralize your Primordial Polarities ("Primes" for short). Neutralization of your Primes solves your most fundamental problem forever. You can’t avoid this resolution, even if you wanted to. This process liberates each human being from the deadly grasp of the fundamental forces of duality. At the moment when you discover your own Primes (Primordial Polarities) there is a Neutralization of opposites. You see one Primordial Polarity in another and vice versa. You become ONE. You are one with the Cosmos. And I actually experienced this.

Like I said before, I'm always slightly disappointed when I read other peoples accounts of their spiritual experience - hopefully by explaining in detail you'll get a good idea of what I experienced. It was pretty incredible. Basically once I'd discovered my primes (wrong v right in my case) I was surrounded by this bright, white light which has a hint of green to it. It felt really good or rather I felt really good. Not like 'oh my god, I feel good, this is wonderful'. I felt complete, peaceful, calm and very loved. They call this nirvana - it was amazing. Short lived but truly mind blowing nevertheless!

Still with me? Good.....I promise you I haven't gone mad...

So as well as introducing me to the wonders of PEAT, Don also introduced me to emotional energy, how it causes blockages in your body and ultimately this can
result in disease. He also taught me how to remove it using a magnet of all things.

Again this was fascinating - by focusing on an individual problem and 'feeling' it in your body (you can feel a problem if you relax and focus on the feeling it conjours up) you can eliminate it using a magnet to draw out the energy.

I had to imagine the negative emotion, what it looked like, its colour and where it was also lying in my body (in my case solar plexus - area just below the centre of your rib cage). Then using the magnet I had to envisage the energy moving out of my body. In my case up through my throat, into and out of my mouth. It was unbelievable - I could actually feel and taste the energy. It took ages to removed too which meant it was an emotion which had been lying dormant for a very long time. And afterwards how did I feel? Lighter - in fact when I went to recall the emotion I felt nothing. No anger, no resentment.

I saw Don twice and what we uncovered was pretty mind blowing for me. Explained a lot. Put so much in perspective and totally made sense. In fact the last 35 years of my life made complete sense. I won't go in to the details cause that my friend is way too personal, and I'm not sure you'd find it particularly interesting anyway! What I will say though is it completely changed my perspective.

More of the unexpected....

I arrived in Ubud armed with a list of things I was going to do: see the palace, various temples, the monkey sanctuary, bontantic gardens, art galleries the list was endless. In fact for the first three days in Ubud each day was planned with military precision. I think someone said (can't remember who) 'life is what happens when you're busy making plans'. Never really appreciated that comment until I went travelling and especially when I arrived in Ubud.

Each morning, after a delicious Balinese brekkie at Pramesti, which usually consisted of pancake topped with banana and coconut, I would head to the Yoga Cafe where I would end up chatting to various people - usually Californian hippies. This in turn would lead to a recommendations of some sort and my planned day would be dropped like a hot brick as I embarked on the unexpected. So my usual hangouts of the the Yoga Cafe, Buddha Cafe, Indus (gorgeous restaurant over looking the rice fields with the best fresh juices in town)and the Three Monkey's would always come up trumps in terms of the people I would meet. They were always interesting with great recommendations and with out a doubt people I would never normally meet.

What kept making me smile though is the way I would think to myself how I'd really like to do x y or z and then I would meet someone who had, or knew someone or knew where I could do exactly what I'd been thinking about. It was pretty strange in a way but it just kept happening while I was in Ubud. For a while I'd been thinking 'hmmm I'd really like to meet Ketut Liyer the medicine man, palmist and Balinese astrologist everyone has been raving about. I wonder who knows him'. Kept popping into my head. And this is exactly what was preoccupying my thoughts on the morning I bumped into Fleur at the Yoga Cafe.

I'd got chatting to Fleur - a European documentaries director - the day before at Wayan's place. She had an air of calmness and grace I always aspire to have but realised long ago that no amount of meditating and yoga will ever bring out self assured waftiness which I'm convinced is hiding somewhere deep inside me. I immediately liked Fleur - not just because I was is awe of her total zen-ness - but she had clearly lived a bit, no doubt been delt a few rough deals in life and that was something I could resonate with at that time.

Anyway, we got talking about Wayan and the 'Eat, Pray, Love' book that everyone seems to read when they come to Bali. Kinda makes sense what with it being about Bali and Ubud specifically! Anyway, the author became friends with Wayan and also struck up a friendship with Ketut Liyer. I was saying to Fleur how I wanted to meet him, as I've heard on the grapevine he's quite a character, and what do you know she'd seen him a few days before. Gave me his card and my 'to do' list was, for the third and last time, binned.

With Ketut's cards firmly in my grasp I caught a taxi bike to his compound. I found him sitting crossed legged, on a small pavilion, with a few Balinese locals dotted around him, listening to him giving the diagnosis to teenage girl. I have no idea what he was saying as it was in Balinese!

I can't actually put an age on Ketut - let's just say he was old, maybe over 80 but he looked good for it. Not as lined as you'd think for someone over 80. Practically bald except a few strands of long hair and with hardly any teeth. To the left of him where books piled high which I later learnt were his grandfathers who also used to be a healer. The information on palm reading and Balinese medicine were written on coconut laves and bound. There were beautiful colourful birds in cages dotted around the compound and aside from Ketut talking, the only other noise was the distant gentle hum of motorbikes from the main road a five minute walk away.

I learnt a lot from Ketut and went back to see him a few times. He mainly reads Westeners palms - I wasn't there for that though although he did read my palm. He was pretty accurate and said if I return with my future husband he will bless us. He kept asking me why I wasn't married - I was a bit like 'aren't you supposed to know the reason Mr Palm Reader!'...in fact that's a question I have been asked in every country I've been to. To be honest I'm actually thankful I haven't married any of my previous boyfs. My recent realisation that I've actually been dating the same man for the last 20 years (same content, different packaging) has led me to believe that I have developed a pattern (read addiction maybe?) for inappropriate men (read: issues, misers, flashy, mummies boys, music snobs, addicts.. .the list is endless). Armed with this new information the fact I'm not married is something to be celebrated!

In fact, one of the three questions I repeatedly get asked in Bali are: 'where you going? what you're doing? and are you married?'. The Balinese have to know where to 'put' you so to speak - it's part of hte Balinese culture you see. Not meant to be rude or intrusive as it sometimes feels when you've been asked 30 times in 20 minutes and you're rushing to find a loo! Anyway, if you're not married always reply: 'No I'm not married - yet'. The Balinese prefer it this way as it's hopeful.

However Ketut has assured me that I will be married (whatever) but like I said my future, how he saw it, wasn't the reason why I paid him a visit. I wanted to find out about Balinese meditation and had heard he was the man to ask. And he was a fountain of knowledge in this area as I'd hoped. He taught me the Balinese method of meditation and told me about the various spirits on the island, how they 'interact' with humans. It was fascinating.