It wasn't until I arrived at Vinod's house that it dawned on me I was actually going to stay the night and what the experience might entail. I'd forgotten all the little things which make for a full and exhausting experience when visiting an Indian family home. Like being talked about in another language, being watched as you get up and walk somewhere, being asked where you're going even when you're going to the loo....basically any movement you make, anything you say, any expression you give is noted and commented on. Usually through laughter. Now I'm used to people laughing at me - usually for the wrong reasons. In fact I think I probably humiliate myself on a daily basis so I've learnt to live with people rolling their eyes, chuckling or roaring (okay, so maybe that's a slight exaggeration) with laughter at something I've either said or done. Or so I thought.... As soon as I arrived I knew I was in for a strict scrutiny from his parents and brother. Generally Indians don't hold back - especially about how you look. If they think you're hair looks a mess, clothes are wrong, you've put on or lost weight, skin looks good - whatever their opinion rest assured you'll be the first to know. I've drawn breath in horror at some of the 'frank' comments I've over heard or worse still, been directed at me. Thankfully though the verdict was positive; I'd lost weight, I was in danger of being too thin if I lost more (culturally there's also a tendency to exaggerate), my hair looked 'better, much better' longer and I looked younger. Phew!
After been given the okay by the family - and I must admit I was definitely walking a little taller afterwards - evidently I was deemed suitable for public display and was taken immediately to see the rest of the family. That's right, grandparents, cousins, uncles, aunts, cousin brothers, sister cousins (I'm still confused at to what exactly the difference is between a cousin and a sister cousin) were all ready and waiting for my arrival.
Before I knew it I was sitting center stage on a plastic chair at the grandparents home. I was literally sitting in the middle of the room as his grandmother, grandfather, uncle, uncle's wife, cousins and so on looked at me (chuckling) and talking Malayalam (mother language for Kerala) to each other.
It was as this point that I truly experienced what it was really like to be laughed at - I decided to break up the hilarity by speaking to them....in Malayalam of course. And no sooner as I'd uttered the words 'namaste' they were virtually doubled up with laughter. Undeterred I continued with my pigeon Malayalam but they laughed all the more.
So there I was sitting pretty in my new outfit and everything trying to re balance their opinion of me after last time (where I got drunk) and they just stood there laughing at me. And there was me thinking I'd made progress. Seriously, you'd have thought they were watching a stand up comedian. And while I do like to tell myself I have a good sense of humour even I know 'how are you' isn't a side splitter...
Feeling slightly deflated I headed back to Vinod's for dinner. The food as always was fabulous but I noticed his mum ate after we (me, Vinod, his father and brother) did - I wondered how well that would go down in my family ie not very.
So feeling pretty thankful I didn't have to rely on my fathers generosity when it came to his leftovers to survive (sorry Dad!) I started to think about what we'd do for the rest of evening. By this stage I was feeling pretty tired. Not through lack of sleep but the constant attention and lack of personal space. I mean don't get me wrong I was having a good time but a different kind of good time.
Everything I said, every move I made was noted. We were all sitting in one room, right on top of each other; me and Vinod sitting at one end of the bed, his brother at the other, his parents sitting on chairs besides us. No space at all. Then when I wanted to get up to go to the loo instantly there's a 'where are you going?'. I was feeling really self conscious cause frankly I like to take a waz quietly, without any fuss. It's something I like to do ON MY OWN. But no that wasn't the case. I was in India after all and one thing I've learnt is to just go with whatever is happening. Don't try to control the situation.
So there I was trying not to be noticed in a room full of people. Just as I was about to arrive at the back door to go to the loo, I realised it was barricaded up. His dad took barricade (okay so two planks of wood) down and I, still embarrassed cause the entire family knew nature was calling, rushed out to the loo. As I opened the loo door I was thinking 'ahhh at last a moments peace'....when there standing right in front of me were two goats starring back at me. They were the family goats and had to be kept indoors during the evening. So there I was, taking a waz, while two goats looked on...I couldn't even take a piss without being watched!!
Bemused as the hilarity of it all and relieved at the fact I didn't suffer from stage fright when it really mattered - I went back in to the sitting room and squeezed in between Vinod and his brother and settled down to watch a Bollywood film. Aha, now this I can relate to - sitting in front of the telly. Bliss.
It was during the film that I started to wonder where I was going to sleep - I asked Vinod - he laughed 'in here'....so two hours later there I was getting ready for bed. I didn't even bother with changing - nor did anyone else - the rigmarole of it all was too much. Then it occurred to me that there was only one bed - again I asked myself and Vinod: 'where was I going to get my beauty sleep'. Well, the only bed was assigned to me. I couldn't believe it - no matter how much I protested his parents were insistent. The only bed in the house had my name on it. So while his mum slept on the floor (Vinod tried to consol me with the fact she used to sleep on sand in their old 'house' 'so the concrete floor with a matt was much better'...no, I couldn't quite grasp the concept either...) I slept in the same room on the bed. Vinod, his father and brother slept on the floor in the hall way. Can you believe it - his parents gave up their own bed for me!
The following morning I opened my eyes to his mum and dad both staring at me - they had been watching me sleep....ironically I only hoped my audience wasn't due to the fact I'd been sleep talking...