Saturday, 15 March 2008

Rescued in Chennai

By the time I arrived in Chennai I felt my love affair with India was well and truly over. I'd just 'celebrated' my fifth month anniversary in the country and lets just say there weren't any signs of party hats, poppers or cake - I was O.V.E.R it. I was sick of the smell, the filth, the food constantly being stared at, the comments, the hassle. Most unlike me. I love India. Always have but too much of a good thing and all that and five months in a long time.

My gorgeous friend Claire Humphries (nee Glennane) told me before I left that if I got into trouble/homesick/fed-up that I should just chuck money at the problem and switch on the TV to watch News 24. At the time I didn't really imagine I'd have to use her advice so I neatly filed it into the deepest darkest corner of my brain. Funny how the little things pop into your head sometimes - I was just about to scream blue murder at a rickshaw driver for 'accidentally' brushing his dirty, filthy little hand on my breast as he 'helped' me with my rucksack when Claire's words of advice rang in my ears. I need to get out of India, I need to be where others (ie rickshaw drivers) aren't. I need to escape and quickly. Before I knew where I was there I am sitting with Charlie and Greg, who had flown down to Chennai to save me from myself, poring through LP looking for a five star hotel.

OH. MY. GOD. It was sheer luxury. A large room, double bed, clean white sheets, mini bar, room service, sat tv, air con....pool, bar, restaurant. Let me put this into context for you - I haven't slept directly on bed linen for eight months (sarongs are neatly placed on every bed I sleep on for fear of bed bugs or any other kind of skin related disease), nor has my foot directly touched any floors for fear of some sort of fungal infection. I hadn't watched TV in over three months and my mild obsession for my hand anti bacteria sanitiser was out of control.

After a few nights at the Ambassador, Greg got a bit carried away and tried to pursued us to stay at the Taj Connemara 'Taj me up'...very plush hotel who I think would've laughed if we'd turned up with in our 'traaaaveller' get up ruck sacks. We had to reign him in and thankfully we all settled for a slap up meal there instead. Ahhhhh salmon steaks, cheesy mash potato, asparagus, artichokes...I nearly wept with joy at the taste senstaions.

So that's what we did for a week - luxury all the way. Greg and Charlie stayed in a 'daddy' suite - I naturally gate crashed. We watched sat tv, crappy films and ordered room service. I developed a mild obsession for tuna, mayo, cheese sarnies and chips...after 5 months chili alo gobi has lost its appeal and if I see another illidy (rice cake) I will cry. I ordered breakfast in bed, lay by the pool and generally did nothing...oh and I watched News 24 - a lot. And I mean a lot!!!

Friday, 14 March 2008

Beauty news from India.....

It may come as no surprise to you that while I've been travelling, I've felt somewhat duty bound to sample the various beauty salons, parlors and spas. It's actually one of my favourite past times and let's face it - who doesn't like to be pampered and preened? I like to look at in as research really. You know, get to know a little bit more about another culture and...actually, not sure who I'm trying to kid here - the opportunity to have weekly facials, massages and pedicures (not manicures as my Lancaster sun cream plays havoc with nail varnish!) for a fraction of the price I would usually pay back in the UK is just too good to miss.

One of the benefits of whiling away my time with beauticians, masseuses and the like is that I get recommendations on the best products to buy. So ladies (and gentlemen), I've discovered two brands (from India and Tibet) which are so good that, with slight hesitation, I feel compelled to share with you.

Some of you beauty obsessives out there may already have heard of Himalaya - personally before my travels I'd never tried the range but let me tell you its a beauty (excuse the pun!). Himalaya uses the tools of modern science to create pharmaceutical grade Ayurvedic products. Given the Ayurveda is steeped in over 500 years of history, in my opinion, it's pretty handy these clever guys have developed a range which incorporates the old with the new so to speak; they marry Ayurvedic knowledge with scientific know how. And this stuff really does work. Admittedly I haven't tried the entire range - simply because it won't all fit into my backpack and my back is already suffering from its current weight - but people I've travelled with have raved about the entire range.

Personally I can recommend: the Gentle Face Wash Cream which doesn't leave your skin feeling stretched and dry but fresh and glowing (must be the cucumber and Aloe Vera ingredients). The Foot Care Cream should be positioned next to the crown jewels - perfect for hard, dry and cracked skin. It works wonders. And the Soothing Body Lotion which has sunflower oil extracts which soften and smooths dry skin, Apricot Kernal Oil to revitalize, while Grape, with its axioxident activity keeps blemishes at bay. It doesn't leave a thick, greasy film on your skin like so many of them do either - you don't have to wait very long for it to dry.

Personally, I'd skip through the range (any excuse) and see what suits your skin - the good news is you can buy the products on line...so no excuses.

http://www.himalayadirect.com/noneu.asp

Right, this little baby is called NYERDAK-GAMOLI or Sorig Anti-Wrinkle cream and its a true gem especially if you want to get rid of wrinkles - form an orderly queue! I swear you see a difference even after one application. Thought I was imagining it but I've given it to a few friends who literally shrieked with glee down the phone at me for sending it to them.

It originates from Tibet and it is based on natural herbs derived from a formulation of a renowned 17th century Tibetan physician. It was originally developed as a protective and nourishing cream to withstand the cold winds of the Tibetan plateau. Perfect for the UK then! It helps to prevent dryness, revitalizing the skin and making it smoother and more youthful. And another bonus is the cream doesn't contain any animal ingredient and are not tested on animals. So you can look beautiful with a guilt free conscience!

http://www.men-tsee-khang.org

Have discovered another little find called Biotique - so blimmin obscure I can't get any info on it - will try for next month.

Go forth, purchase these finds - your skin will thank you for it!

Friday, 7 March 2008

Auroville - the community....maaaan









I skipped through Maduria (met a crazy Kashmiri Muslim guy on the roof top of a shop who told me Indian was going down, or rather the women were - they wear tees and jeans - so loose, so immoral - ditched him quickly), then headed to Trichy (hot guide you know about), then Tanjour (where a lovely guy took time out of his day to negotiate the purchase of my Indian SIM card - aaah there are kind people!) then finally arrived in Pondicherry.

Pondicherry, or Pondy as the locals like to refer to it, used to be a French colonie so think India meets France. It's such a pretty town, right on the coast, tree lined streets, clean and dare I say a welcome change. Many of the Indians speak French so I was 'parla vous-ing' wherever possible as to be totally honest with you I needed a change. I've been in India for nearly 5 months and let me tell you it's constant and after a while it's pretty tiring, especially when you're travelling on your own. You need a sense of humour and well, after 5 months I'm starting to lose mine.

But I was in Pondy which amounted to heaven. After months of chili alogobi, apoms etc I found myself mainling soup du poisson, salad niçoise, red wine, fags (everyone in France smokes). Let me tell you it felt good. Really good.

While I was in Pondy (darling) I decided to check out Auroville - a township devoted to an experiment in human unity. Started by a lady referred to a 'The Mother', The purpose of Auroville is to realise human unity – in diversity. Today Auroville is recognised as the first and only internationally endorsed ongoing experiment in human unity and transformation of consciousness, also concerned with - and practically researching into - sustainable living and the future cultural, environmental, social and spiritual needs of mankind. Basically it's in the middle of now where, nothing like India at all (it's clean for starters) and you have the opportunity to further your development(maaaan). It was gorgeous. So peaceful, tons to do and I was in my element; yoga, meditation, the odd cultural dance (which I never understand so end up day dreaming or falling asleep) and because it's run my lots of rich lost souls from France and America (mainly Californians) the food is tasty but healthy and the coffee is great!

It's a community (man) and I have to be honest I can't help but smirk at these 'communities' or rather the types of people who tend to crop whenever you hear the words 'religion' or 'spirituality'. There are a lot of people there who, if they were chocolate, would eat themselves. So spiritual (man), way too enlightened to speak to anyone which in my opinion defeats the object - good job Buddha, Jesus and the like didn't take that attitude!

The turbans from the Prada catwalk of summer 07 were out in force. In fact I think Prada may have sponsored the key 'look' for the Aurovillians (as they like to call themselves - cue dry wretch). So there I was surrounded by people who were too spiritually enlightened to speak to me, wearing multi coloured turbans and all manner of flowing dresses, kaftans etc. I was scorned at for wearing a short sleeved tee - I'd just like to add that there are hardly any Indians in Auroville however some people (Westerners of course) have fully embraced the Indian culture (good on them) and now scorn at anyone who merely resembles their 'old world'. Like they are impostors!

Just when I thought I'd have to hot foot it out of there before I brought a turban and started chanting to myself as I walked around (seriously, I saw someone doing this) I found my saviours. Who rather handily turned out to be my partners in crime -Rebbecca and Eda.

Totally on my wave length and happy to indulge in the activities but have a fag a coffee afterwards I breathed a sigh or relief....'I is about to have me some fun!' I thought (and in that accent). So we spent four days bombing round on scooters, sunbathing, looking at the hot men, drinking in Pondy, embraced all the activities (okay, so admittedly we missed 4 classes and ducked out of one before it even began), drank coffee (proper!) and smoked spliffs (the thought of being escorted off the premises for breaking the rules did sort of appeal to the 'rebel without a cause' side of my - complex - personality).

I laughed constantly for 4 days and loved being part of the 'community'...maaaaan - well my version of it at least!

Sunday, 2 March 2008

Trichy - the hot guide

So there I was wondering around one of the many, many Hindu temples in Trichy when along comes this rather hot guide offering to show me round. Now who am I to pass up an offer of being shown the wonders of yet another Hindu temple by a hot man? Thought about his offer for about 1 second, decided I would be a fool to say no what with me being a culture vulture and all that (ahem). After all he was a welcome change to the 50 plus guides who normally roam the temples!

Three hours later and fully versed in the whys and wherefores of Hindu religion and the history of the temples (although I must admit I was too busy admiring his chiseled cheek bones and to really concentrate on the details), followed by a few chai's (Indian tea - really nice and sweet) and I must admit I was liking the company of my new 'friend'. I can't actually remember his name but that's just mere detail....

Arranged to me the 'hot guide' the following day for dinner. He'd invited to me his home to meet his family - a massive deal in India and seeing as I'm fully embracing the culture (hahahahaha) and generally going with the flow I decided to accept his offer for dinner with the family....

I arrived to see his mother, who is partially deaf, with massive head phones on her head sitting with her face about 2 inches from the TV - turns out her sight isn't too great either - watching an Indian soap. The soaps in India are nothing short of hysterical. Badly filmed and produced and overly dramatic; they look like they've been shot by a 16-year-old media student. The script is pretty basic too - although admittedly I didn't understand what was being said, I did have the invaluable experience of watching a granny beat up 10 men with her walking stick. Very realistic.

So there I was sitting with his mother (well, I was sitting behind her as she was so close to the TV), his brother and little sister watching Indian soap operas....'Okay' I thought to myself. 'I'm just going to go with this one and see what happens.'

The 'hot guide' suggested we head upstairs to the roof terrace. It was rather lovely - skyline view of Trichy under the stars and moon....I'm actually making this sound grander than it actually was - the roof terrace was shared with the other people who lived in the block, there was shite every where and it was pitch black so I kept tripping up when I tried to walk around - not really great for my 'cool, nothing phases me' image but I wasn't about to let that mar my confidence - God forbid.

Anyway, at the ripe old age of 34 (nearly 35 - April 12th, again a gentle reminder to you all - feel free to give generously to an aging lady)it was only a matter of seconds before I clicked where this one was heading. Or rather where he wanted this to go. To be honest I worked that one out about three seconds after he approached me at the temple but again, who am to knock back the advances of a 'hot guide'. I'm no fool God dammit. And besides he was hot - have I mentioned that already?

The 'hot guide' told me all about his family; his father died when he was 10-years-old so he was taken out of school and started working in tea house. Slightly different to many of the 10-year-olds I know....actually I don't know any but you know what I mean! The fact his father passed so early meant there is a massive amount of pressure on him and his brother to get the dowri together for his sisters weddings. Basically in the Hindu religion/culture if the father passes all responsibility for the household, bills etc goes to the sons. The 'hot guide' has to earn enough money to pay for both his sisters dowries (ranging from 1k plus depending on caste) before he and his brother can get married. A lot of responsibility.

We chatted a bit longer, he kept offering me joints and vodka...I was like 'naaa, you're alright, thanks'. Played the 'I don't drink or smoke' card which shocks everyone and throws them completely off guard as obviously ALL English people drink and smoke...'not this one darlin!'.

Had dinner with his family, went back up stairs for more fags and by this time he was steaming. I mean really drunk. Everything about India is extreme, nothing is in half measures - be it the smells, the intensity, everything comes at you at one hundred miles an hour so it's no great surprise many Indians reflect this in their character. So there are no half measures (like the pun!) when it comes to drinking. The Indian men I've met drink like it's going out of fashion. I found his slurring and swaying pretty amusing but then he invited me to stay at his house. 'Whaaaaaaat? Stay at the family home - are you kidding me? I'd rather stab my own hand'...obviously didn't mention the fact I'd rather self harm than stay there. Decided it was my cue to leave. Hot footed it out of there like I was competing for the Olympics 100 metres race. Fast.

Saturday, 1 March 2008

I've been Joshied...

Prem Joshua - ever heard of him? I hadn't until I saw a zillion posters around Varkala announcing his open air concert. I'd been in Varkala for a few weeks and by that time had heard every single playlist in the area. Prem Joshua was one of them and his 'hit' Shiva Moon is literally played to death in Varkala so I thought I'd go along.

Prem Joshua or 'Joshi' as his groupies refer to him is viewed by many - again, manly by his followers - as a 'guru'. Personally I'm not convinced about the 'guru' reference mainly due to the fact he's musician so in my opinion this doesn't mean you get to graduate to 'guru' status. But then I like Phil Collins so what do I know. However, Joshi has very successfully infused Indian with contemporary music and it is good. At least I think so but again I ref Phill so you may not believe me!

The open air concert was interesting to day the least. The setting was gorgeous; we were perched on a the edge of a cliff, surrounded by coconut trees and of course it was a gorgeous evening.

First of all I thought it was slightly strange the tickets were, by Indian standards, pretty expensive. This meant that Indians couldn't attend as generally non of them could afford it. Bit of a shame really especially as he's so popular over here plus I didn't really think it was in keeping with the 'one religion, one god, one love, everyone is equal' blah blah blah that appears to be the essence surrounding Joshi.

The second thing that occurred to me was the number of groupies wearing tees with 'I've been joshied' on the back, strategically cut-up (assume this is some sort of fashion statement) - it made me smile. Maybe it's me but the strap line 'I've been joshied' conjured all manner of images in my mind - most of them not that clean either...

The highlight of the evening for me, aside from the performance which was excellent, was when Joshi mentioned love. He started talking about his philosophy on love, how we should love more people etc. He was half way through his 'sermon' when a rather over zealous woman (sporting a 'I've been joshied tee) jumped up, yelled 'we should all love more, yes to love, love, love, love...', did a star jump and started gyrating against a coconut tree...priceless!