Friday, 4 April 2008

Meeting the spiritual folk of Bali




Left: Wayan and Andrea at the market buying offerings and a pic of the outside of a family compound.

It is said that almost every foreigner who lives in Bali has some kind of recognition of the intense magic that moves over the land there. Some can feel the energy, some see it, some hear its voice in the night. Not everyone is allowed to live in Bali either, a non-negotiable fact that has nothing to do with the Immigration Department. A visiting Buddhist nun once stated that she thought Bali was a karmic vortex; people come here to meet their karma. Hmmm so maybe I came to meet my karma? After the intense healing I experienced it certainly felt like it would've been effected. In a good way obviously. At least I hope...only time will tell!

Anyway, I turned up at Wayan's early the following morning and was promptly taken upstairs to change into more suitable clothes - my denim mini and tee wasn't suitable for going to see spiritual healers - I was told. Tut, tut...didn't think about that. So sporting a gorgeous traditional Bali sarong, a sash and with my hair neatly pulled up in a bun I was deemed suitably dressed and allowed to go down stairs for more blood cleansing Tumeric juice - which is actually rather tasty.

Turned out I wasn't the only one going to see two of Bali's most renowned healers - Andrea from USA was too. She was suffering from chronic back pain and literally was in the most excruciating amount of pain. She winced with every step.

It's perfectly customary for the Balinese to visit healers much the same as it is in the west to see a doctor if you're unwell - it's only different for us westeners rto to see a healer....My first visit was to see a spiritual healer who meditates on your body and heals it with a 'holy knife'. Oooookay. It was pretty surreal though. Me, Wayan and Andrea turned up at his family compound. All family compounds/houses in Bali look inward. On the outside is a high wall. Inside there is a garden and various small buildings. In Bali there's a mild tropical climate so people live outside. The 'living room' and 'dining room' are open veranda areas, looking out on to the garden.

We were sitting outside the temple area within the compound when a man with greg bobbed hair, enormous presence and over six foot tall came bounding down the path with a massive smile on his face and the kindest eyes. His name was Pemangku Manbal who is a lower rank of Hindu priest which explains the 'holy' knife.

After offering various goodies to the spirits and praying - we had to say our names and our parents names including where they lived. This worried me slightly as I have an aunt Barbara who lives in Bursledon. My mum is also called Barbara and also lives in Bursledon. Just to be sure I repeated her full name several times...didn't want them to get the wrong Barbara. All this praying ain't gonna be for nuthin!

Pemangku Manbal, who was sitting down crossed legged on the floor of a small pavilion, ushered me over. I sat on the floor in front of him with my back facing him. He scanned my back with his hand then started prodding it with the knife -laughing when I yellped in pain. Then I had to turn around to face him with my legs out straight in front of me. He then got to work on my feet....with the knife. It was blunt, obviously, but still flippin painful at some points. I was clenching my jaw and simpering at some points. Manbal was laughing. Then at a particular point when I thought I was going to scream the place down and he could tell, his eyes widened with what looked like glee and he was like 'ahaaaa'. Swivelled me round again so my back was facing him and then began pointing and pressing the knife at certain points on my lower back. It hurt. A lot. Then he told me to stand up and walk about. Seriously I felt really different. Lighter. Not as stiff.

Andrea's healing was pretty impressive too. You could tell he'd worked some magic and she could definitely walk more easily. Off we went to see the next healer who was none other than world renowned healther, Tjokorda Gede Rai.

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